12.27.2006

We're on the Way...!!

In Nairobbery today, in transition to Mombasa. Yahooooo!!! All us PCVs keep happening upon each other, so it's nice to have buddied up with a couple folk. After this, I'm gonna try to squeeze in a waxing to be sure I am ready for the beach. I hope I can make it!!!!

The ride out here was nice - I took the train. As we are leaving Kisumu, I'm watching the city go by out the windows, nice view, yadda yadda. Whoa! What the hell?? Yes, this IS, in fact, a little boy riding a camel down the tracks. Riiight.... Karibu Kenya, I guess..!

Christmas was nice. Went to the other mzungu's house, met her hubby and her family and kula chapati nyingi! Santa was really good to me. He sent peanut M&Ms (lots!), new jammies with obscene logos (and from K&L! Who'da guessed it?), my jeans!!!!!!!, and banana breads. YUM! I am SO happy to report that YES!! I still fit easily into my jeans!! I'm sorry to say the breads are already gone. Damn that's tasty bizness!

So, the next train leaves tonight at 6:30p, check-in at 5:30p. *sigh* I don't know if/where/how expensive the internet is in Mombasa or in Lamu. Hopefully you'll get some posts from there. I got some things to say, but I really wanted to get this all in there first. I have an excessive amount of liquor now, and the full intention of rotting my liver on the beach a la Caymans. I mean, c'mon, what goods the liver anyway? Right?

Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year! Hello 2007!! (and exactly 18 months left!)

12.17.2006

Love for the West Side

Back in Kisumu. I had a bus ticket, leaving at 9p on Saturday night. We really left about 9:30, and took it slooooow. Didn't get in until 6a, 2 hours late. And my dumb ass was foolish enough to believe I might sleep on that ride, and be able to tune out the horrible roads. NOPE! The horrible roads, coupled with the driver's need to swerve around the giant holes in the road kept me awake and just short of seasick.

Seriously, I think these roads were paved by the Brits; 50 years ago, before they left Kenya. Once I get back to Michigan, I swear, I'll never complain about the roads again! Like, there, the roads are mostly paved, with big potholes. Here, the roads are mostly holes with some patches of pavement. Worse than a gravel road, I swear.

Before I left Nairobi I spent FAR too much money at this market. The good news is, I bought stuff for the lovely people back home. The bad news is, you still have to wait until I return before you'll get to see any of it. Pole! It's some schnazzy stuff, though, so I am pleased!

I also made a point to get to the theatre, as Eragon was playing, and I couldn't be sure if I'd make it in Kisumu. Mum. I hate to say this, but I must: I am so sad that you didn't warn me what a piece of shit that movie is. I spent 350/= (because everything costs more in NRB) on one of the worst movies I have ever seen. God, was it just the cheesiest script you've ever had the misfortune to have paid good money for? And poor, poor Chris P. (the author). He must be so ashamed, 'cause this will never make the sequel. Or, at least, I hope they never film the sequel!

Why, oh Why didn't you tell me?? I mean, I have to assume that you have been to see the movie. I expect you were there in the opening week. Or have I totally flaked out, that there was a warning and I missed it? Well, to my fellow man, let me state for the record: Eragon was a SHITTY movie! Please, just read the book and let that be sufficient!

Okay, enough. I leave fore site tomorrow. I am going to go hippo hunting, climb a mini-mountain and read at least 4 books in the next week and a half. Then, it's the 25th of December, also known as the day before I leave for Coast. It appears that I have a brother and sister that love me very much, and have made it possible for me to have a rauciously good time. Asanteni sana, na orio muno!! I might get another post here before then, in the travel time, or else it will be on the way back, which is on or after the 5th.

Peaceful, loving, happy and healthy holidays to you all. I'd wish you a Merry Christmas in Swahili, but no one has taught me how yet. I'll let ya know.

12.15.2006

IST

IST: Incredibly Senseless Timewaster.

It's Friday, so we are finished with out training. Nairobi has been COLD all week, but otherwise nice. Great to see (party hard with) the other PCVs. Been missing out on some good fun!

With all us out at site, and with the regional borders that keep most of us from seeing the others, it's been like a class reunion. All the Westerners know and love each other, have all the scoopage on our lives, etc. Same for all the Eastern/Centrals. But we're 2 different groups now, that have continued to divide ourselves a bit, unconsciously. I think IST has helped bring it all back.

The cultural adventures in Nairobi have made this one a worthwhile visit for me. Like, Ethiopian food on Tuesday. (C&M: yea, it was a lot like Blue Nile, but better, with the cutest little Ethiopian hostess and the more authentic ambiance) Then there was gelato (Nutella and black forest for me, thanks!). Last night a bunch of us went out for Sushi. Damn!

5 of us sat at the low tables, barefoot, while the rest of the crowd was out in another room at tables. I ate a bunch, and it was SO good! Tuna sashimi, Dynamite and then Rainbow rolls, soup, tea, mmm... All that for less than 1,000/=, which isn't bad, in my book. Add in the cutie-pie waiter, and it was awesome. I will absolutely be back to that place, and to sushi places in the US.

So I was gonna write another article for you all, was even outlining in my nog last weekend, right? Yea. Lost it! It took all bloody week to get the last one written, and it was enough time to lose the other file. Damn brain! Although, to be fair, there was a bit of a massacre this week, so we're working in crisis mode. Whatever. It might return.

You're an Animal!! Part One: On the Boma

On the average Luhya boma (homestead/compound/place where all the sons and their fams live cozied up to Mama) you will find a bizzunch of smelly critters. All for use of some kind, even if it only seems as lawnmowers. Let's start at the top, with the bigg'uns and work our way down, shall we? Let's.

Mooooooo... Moooooo.... MOOOOO... Have a cow, man! Cows, "ngombe" in Swahili, are on almost every single boma around. They are kept for milk, and almost never used for meat, as the things cost some 10,000/= and no one has the refridgeration needed to store all that meat. There's two kinds: traditional and dairy. The traditionals are weird looking and called “zebu” - bony, big sharp horns and a floppy hump on the back of their neck. I don't have the slightest clue what that hump does, so... yea. The dairy cows are more what you see when you think 'cow'. Well, not really the black and whites, but the shapes the same, ya know? Trads are cheaper, but don't give nearly as much milk. Maybe only a few cups a day. Dairys give a few litres, so you can sell to your neighbors and make some cash - it's 10/= for a cup, 20/= for a bottle (maybe 1/2 litre?). Trads can eat Anything and will be taken out to graze, or mow the lawn. Dairys are snots, requiring napia grass, which is either bought or grown in the shamba. Also, as an fyi, cows like mango and banana peels, but not passion fruit rinds, cabbage, or pineapple. Store that away, just in case.

Next down from a cow is either the sheep or the goat. These aren't always around, and I think they are kept for meat, though the idea of goat milk is starting to build. I’m really curious about this one. Rumor is it’s healthier for humans than moo milk, but I think it’s a matter of taste. (B just told me that they sell camel milk at Nakumatt. I think he’s trying to get me to buy it, but, uh… No. Seriously, where the hell does camel milk come from?? Mum, Dad, stop reading this, I think it’s getting nasty.) Bl does an awesome mbuzi imitation, and now I laugh every time I pass one on the bush.

The sheep are totally ugly, with fatty tails that wag uncontrollably. They make weird noises, not baaaaas like you think. More like someone screaming. Kinda freaky, if you aren’t expecting them. And they are definitely are NOT for wool. Why would you have sheep and not get wool? These are the lawnmowers I was talking about.

Uhh... what’s next? Ah, yes, god, how could I forget?? CHICKENS!! Kuku, kuku, kuku!! The Luhyas luv these little guys. They’re everywhere. And most families bring the kukus in at night, to sleep in the house. When a visitor comes along, they race out to the yard and slaughter a kuku to show their appreciation. So, me, I’m really vocal about how I Don’t eat the kuku, so they don’t have to waste 200/= on a mzungu who won’t appreciate.

It’s damn entertaining, though, living in a land of beasts. Walk through the bush and BAAAAA, suddenly there’s a goat hollerin’ at ya. Or, you carry a stick to thwack the cows and move them out the way. It sure keeps the commute interesting!

12.11.2006

An Update

Deeply sorry it's been so blasted long since I posted. I saw the internet briefly about 2 wks ago, but didn't have anything brilliant prepared. I still don't, but this is free this week, so you'll have to bear with it. I think I'm gonna post 2 essays this week, just to make up. Sawa?

I am in Nairobi, back at AFRALTI for IST. We arrived last night, in time for dinner (yuck. The food here is notsogood) and then celebrated our reunion. There, apparently, was a good sale at the Ukwala, so a few folks had gotten a litre of Special Cane (a mysterious liquor that is made from sugar cane, but isn't rum or vodka) for 190/= ('bout two fifty). Let's say a few of us were a little off our game this morning/afternoon/day. But hot damn!

Oh, yea, and M&D: I shaved my nog again, so it's all super short, even shorter than the snap I had sent. It's fab, cause everyone keeps rubbing my head. LOVE IT!