Route 11

Transport here in Kenya comes in a lot of forms, each with its own weird title. Boda boda, tuk tuk, matatu, kwa miguu... Sounds sorta foreign to the American ear (and eye, for you all). So, let me do a bit of explaining.

The most popular means of travel in the rural areas is definitely good ol' Route 11. Everyone goes this way, almost every day, almost exclusively. And, you gotta say, it's a pretty good set-up. Free, flexible, your own time, 24 hours a day. 'Route 11? I thought those people didn't have roads' you say? Yes, yes, Route 11 is a little something also called kwa miguu or, in English, your own 2 legs. {Whoa! What the hell is she talking about??} Okay, go over to a full length mirror and take a look. Route ELEVEN. Two ones. Get it? ha? yea...

So, these people walk EVERYWHERE. Ask where a building is and you will be told "not far", because they are so used to walking hours everyday. Consider, in my town, it is an hour walk to get to a real market for food or clothes or supplies. And students are in the same boat - they walk an hour or so to school, then there's the lunch break where they leave campus, then home at the end of the day.

About half the walkers are barefoot for lack of money or for comfort. And I can dig that -me, I love to be barefoot and out in the grass, the mud, whatever. I'd totally be all about it here, 'cept for the whole ringworm thing... PC sorta discourages us from getting ringworm. The problem with walking barefoot all over town (outside the worms, of course), is that your feet slowly turn in to Hobbit feet. They get wide, flat and thick. Ick.

Stepping up from the footpath is the boda boda. Now, I really have to support this method, I like it, I really do. Of course, I like it better in Kisumu with tarmac, and not so much in the village with shitty ass roads. Boda bodas are 2-wheel bikes that have a padded seat (a rectangular patch of padding and bright leather) welded above the back wheel. Usually steps stick out from the center of the wheel, so you can brace your feet, and there are handles just behind/below the drivers seat to hang on. It's cool. All the joys of bike riding, with someone else doing the hardwork! It's great for the environment, it's a mean of self employment for a high number of people, and Much cheaper than a motor vehicle. Of course... some drivers kill time by drinking local brew, and then aren't really great at judging distance or steering or . . . you know. Not bashing their passenger into oncoming traffic.

Next up: the tuk tuk. These do-dads are only in the cities, not in the rurals. It's a small, 3-wheeled vehicle. Bigger than a golf cart, but not by much. The driver is in the front center, and the passengers squeeze into the back. I say 'squeeze' not because they are uncomfortable or overly small, but because we PCVs are cheap and often put 5+ into the 3-seater. They are pretty fun. Like a taxi, it's a private vehicle, so you go wherever you want, and you can fit your groceries, your luggage, whatnot, much more so than on a boda. Price isn't bad, once shared amongst people, but can add up.

After this is probably the 2nd most common transport, the matatu. These are scary, scary vans designed to seat 14 humans, although their contents are never that simple. In reality, the matatus are packed with almost 20 people, chickens, goats, children, big bags of fruit/maize/clothes/etc., a mattress, luggage, and god only knows what else. They drive along the road, on routes, and pick people from the side of the road. Kind of like busses in cities, but far more chaotic.

The other charm to matatues are the Touts, or Conductors. These are the fellas who hang out the side of a matatu and pick passengers. They tell the driver when to stop or go and collect the fare. If the vehicle is packed (always), they are the ones to stand in the doorway, holding on the frame, with the wind blowing through their burgandy vests. Lots are drunks. Almost all are men, young men. They are very active in their work, and will do nearly everything to get your butt in their vehicle. Truly. Do NOT sit in the very back, the seat just behind the door, or the hump by the driver. PCVs have decided the middle middle is best, as, in case of an accident you are well padded on all sides. Fun, eh?

A traveller could also ride a coach bus, like the greyhound, for long distance. These are big, spendy, and not used as often. Or, you could take the train (which is fun). It's been dubbed 'The Lunatic Express'. At first, I thought this was the PCVs being snotty, as this is the world's slowest train. Then I read a book and found out the name is as old as the line, having to do with how it was built. Rumors are abound that the line has been bought by someone with a brain, and it will be repaired and speeded. Who knows...?

Now, had I drafted this essay, as I intended, it would have a great ending. But, since I didn't. Yea. My method of choice is Route 11, and I do it in my Chacos. I love these shoes. I'm never gonna wear socks again...!!!