Whatever

Not really anything good to say... Oh, I should follow up to the last stuff, eh, and finish whatever I was talking about. Maybe.

So, like I told you, I was in Kakamega, on my way to lunch with Mr. Ambassador. Well, he actually had a meeting in Nairobi to smooth over the bombings in Somalia and couldn't make it. All the other grown ups cross their hearts he was really looking forward to meeting all of us. I, of course, accept this response proudly- who wouldn't want to have lunch with us?? We suggested a re-do, but who knows if it will happen.

All in all, it was still really a good time. I got to meet 5 or 6 new PCVs, remeet some old ones, and get a free lunch, followed by free beer. 2 folks from this G7 group were there and super friendly to us, buying the beer and announcing a party at their place in a few weeks. And the real teaser? They have an OVEN! You bet your bottom I'm coming!! The government people were all really cool, though, so it was well worth going to, and I only wish I could have more of those opportunities.

That night was a sleepover at Joe's place. 7 total, and we made spagetti and then french toast for breakfast. Fun times.

At site (oh yea! work!) I have finally started to earn my pay. I was really sick right after Lamu, but have mostly recovered. I'm just snotty now, not near-dead like I felt before. I sat in the office last Monday, doing NOTHING and feeling lame. The voice in my head came on and suggested that, if I want work, I need to get off my sorry ass and go find it. Introductions are over, it's time to talk serious commitments and schedules. And, since Napolean hardly talks to me, let alone offers suggestions of work projects, it's truly up to me.

I now spend Mondays in Eshinutsa, first at the clinic and then at the Secondary school to talk with the female students (all male teachers there). Tuesday afternoons will be at Mundaha Primary, with the Health Club. Wednesday morning, for the next month at least, will be back at Eshinusta 2ndary, to talk with boys and girls. That leaves me a lot of open space, still, but I ain't done! That's just a week worth of effort!

The key to passing the next 18 months, and passing them in a way that will cause warm fuzzies when I reminisce (sp?), is to be busy, busy, busy with work. Sitting around is just too boring and makes time just crawl along.

Another bonus here? I bike to Eshinutsa (maybe 30 min?), and have been biking to Kilingili again. I ran out of money, so biking was the only way to get to the Posta and to get to the market. My tushy and quads are soooooore now! But, maybe this belly I have will take a hike...

I am in Kisumu today. I'm here for research -no really!- and to pick up a package. The camels have finally made it across Africa, bringing a package sent in early July. Take notice, those of you who send groundmail - it takes about 6 months to arrive! That means, don't stick any yummy cupcakes in there, eh? So, anyway, 6 months of waiting reveals that I have the Worlds Greatest Mum who really missed me a lot. It's awesome! FULL of sauce packets for sauces I didn't know existed, let alone came in little packets! And cheese for Mac&Cheese, M&Ms, a new cap and even a mouth gaurd for my Nalgene, and shirts, knives, towels, ... a lot of damn good stuff!

I'll be back in 2 weeks, if all goes well. In the meantime, write me letters! You know who you are! I expect mail from some of those unheard from peoples. Sawa? You don't get a letter unless you send a letter, and it starts with YOU.

Cool. Peace out, dudes.

Just the News, Please

Right-O!

Back from Lamu. I didn't have the money to spend in Kisumu, so you all didn't get to hear my pretty words on the vacation. Just now got to Kakamega (going to be taking lunch with the Ambassador today. Yes, thank you, I know I am important!) so I have some time, though still no money, to write you.

Lamu was Amazing! The trip there sucked eggs, but it was worth it, in the end. So, remember how I said we were going to take the train to Mombasa? Haha!! Silly girl! We all hopped on, set up the laptop and speakers, pulled out the booze and got settled. About midnight we started falling off, but woke to a strange feeling at 2am. The feeling of not moving. hmm... Whatever, let's go back to bed, get some sleep. Sawa. 8am I am awake again and no, we still aren't moving. WTF?

Turns out there is a lake lying over the tracks, just before Kabweze, which is only 2 or so hours outside Nairobi. Crap almighty. We wait there until noon, hoping the water will magically disappear (honestly), and when it doesn't, we wait another hour to be pulled back to Makindu, where we are supposed to get buses the rest of the way. We just got our own matatu, filled it with all 15 of us and all our luggage, and left. Oh, the horror!!!

At least this way we could get to Malindi, not just Mombasa. Our vehicle arrived at 2am, when all the hotels were booked. So, we just went to the gas station where our bus to Lamu would leave from and crashed there, in the middle of it all. Nice, eh? We pass the night in the streets and do okay.

7:30am, the bus arrives. It's okay, 'cause we have tickets and will get seats, hurrah! Until the next 200 people cram into the aisles, mushing us into our seats, forcing us against the windows and raising the temperature considerably. For 8 hours. KILL ME.

We arrive, hot, sweaty and angry, and boat over to the island ("it's an island?", I think). It's a 3-story house, owned by a very cute Frenchman with a boyfriend, where we fit 16 people into 3 bedrooms, 6 beds and 2 tents.

Hey, sorry, I'll finish this later... No money...

No, Really Dude! We're, uh, So Sad You're Dead!

To all my future visitors, I can only hope you'll be so lucky as to arrive in time for a real Kenyan funeral. They sound like such a riotously good time (from my bed, at 3am) that I would hate to have you miss the fun, the culture, the experience.

Someone here told me that the newly dead should not sleep alone their first few nights in the grave. So, families will rent HUGE sound systems and blast their music all through the night. Maybe the idea is to forcefully keep themselves awake by cranking the volume until sleep is impossible. Which might be acceptable, if they didn't aim the speakers outward, toward their sleeping neighbors! Or maybe the aim is to wake the dead, and the family is kind enough to try and reach out to everyone. Who really knows?

The hills and valleys in my area, though, they have an Amazing ability to transport sound so that music from 2 or 3 kilometers away sounds as clear (and loud) as music from right next door.

The problem with this comes at 2am, after you've been struggling for sleep for the last 4 hours. You stumble into your sandals, arm yourself with a panga and step outside, prepared to murder your neighbor. But then you realize, the noise isn't, in fact, from next door, but rather from some chump's place, waayyy over there, across the valley. Sure, you could probably make it over there and complete your mission. But if the music is this loud here, then.... damn! How freakin' loud is it over there?!?

I just don't understand how people known for their hospitality can be SO RUDE as to keep their hard-working neighbors awake all night! Or, how these people tolerate such behavior! That's what you get in a town with no cops and no phones with which to call them, I guess.

The part of me not desperate for sleep wants to get dressed and go over to shake my booty all night. I mean, really!, an all-night disco with no cover charge? In Kenya?? I'm there!

And just when you think it will be worth every effort to find this home and slaughter them all, one by one, it stops.

Peace!

And it's only 4:30am, so, that's like, 2 hours of sleep, and, I could almost survive the next da- Cock-A-Doooooodle-Dooooooooo!!!!!!! And you realize, with a tear, that the music has only stopped because it is dawn. Time to get up and start the chores, start the day. The whole night has passed with hardly a wink. Where was my sleep????

But sleep does come, finally, lulled by sweet dreams of snapping the neck of every rooster in the land. Joy!! One, by One, by One, by One....

We're on the Way...!!

In Nairobbery today, in transition to Mombasa. Yahooooo!!! All us PCVs keep happening upon each other, so it's nice to have buddied up with a couple folk. After this, I'm gonna try to squeeze in a waxing to be sure I am ready for the beach. I hope I can make it!!!!

The ride out here was nice - I took the train. As we are leaving Kisumu, I'm watching the city go by out the windows, nice view, yadda yadda. Whoa! What the hell?? Yes, this IS, in fact, a little boy riding a camel down the tracks. Riiight.... Karibu Kenya, I guess..!

Christmas was nice. Went to the other mzungu's house, met her hubby and her family and kula chapati nyingi! Santa was really good to me. He sent peanut M&Ms (lots!), new jammies with obscene logos (and from K&L! Who'da guessed it?), my jeans!!!!!!!, and banana breads. YUM! I am SO happy to report that YES!! I still fit easily into my jeans!! I'm sorry to say the breads are already gone. Damn that's tasty bizness!

So, the next train leaves tonight at 6:30p, check-in at 5:30p. *sigh* I don't know if/where/how expensive the internet is in Mombasa or in Lamu. Hopefully you'll get some posts from there. I got some things to say, but I really wanted to get this all in there first. I have an excessive amount of liquor now, and the full intention of rotting my liver on the beach a la Caymans. I mean, c'mon, what goods the liver anyway? Right?

Happy Christmas and a Merry New Year! Hello 2007!! (and exactly 18 months left!)

Love for the West Side

Back in Kisumu. I had a bus ticket, leaving at 9p on Saturday night. We really left about 9:30, and took it slooooow. Didn't get in until 6a, 2 hours late. And my dumb ass was foolish enough to believe I might sleep on that ride, and be able to tune out the horrible roads. NOPE! The horrible roads, coupled with the driver's need to swerve around the giant holes in the road kept me awake and just short of seasick.

Seriously, I think these roads were paved by the Brits; 50 years ago, before they left Kenya. Once I get back to Michigan, I swear, I'll never complain about the roads again! Like, there, the roads are mostly paved, with big potholes. Here, the roads are mostly holes with some patches of pavement. Worse than a gravel road, I swear.

Before I left Nairobi I spent FAR too much money at this market. The good news is, I bought stuff for the lovely people back home. The bad news is, you still have to wait until I return before you'll get to see any of it. Pole! It's some schnazzy stuff, though, so I am pleased!

I also made a point to get to the theatre, as Eragon was playing, and I couldn't be sure if I'd make it in Kisumu. Mum. I hate to say this, but I must: I am so sad that you didn't warn me what a piece of shit that movie is. I spent 350/= (because everything costs more in NRB) on one of the worst movies I have ever seen. God, was it just the cheesiest script you've ever had the misfortune to have paid good money for? And poor, poor Chris P. (the author). He must be so ashamed, 'cause this will never make the sequel. Or, at least, I hope they never film the sequel!

Why, oh Why didn't you tell me?? I mean, I have to assume that you have been to see the movie. I expect you were there in the opening week. Or have I totally flaked out, that there was a warning and I missed it? Well, to my fellow man, let me state for the record: Eragon was a SHITTY movie! Please, just read the book and let that be sufficient!

Okay, enough. I leave fore site tomorrow. I am going to go hippo hunting, climb a mini-mountain and read at least 4 books in the next week and a half. Then, it's the 25th of December, also known as the day before I leave for Coast. It appears that I have a brother and sister that love me very much, and have made it possible for me to have a rauciously good time. Asanteni sana, na orio muno!! I might get another post here before then, in the travel time, or else it will be on the way back, which is on or after the 5th.

Peaceful, loving, happy and healthy holidays to you all. I'd wish you a Merry Christmas in Swahili, but no one has taught me how yet. I'll let ya know.

IST

IST: Incredibly Senseless Timewaster.

It's Friday, so we are finished with out training. Nairobi has been COLD all week, but otherwise nice. Great to see (party hard with) the other PCVs. Been missing out on some good fun!

With all us out at site, and with the regional borders that keep most of us from seeing the others, it's been like a class reunion. All the Westerners know and love each other, have all the scoopage on our lives, etc. Same for all the Eastern/Centrals. But we're 2 different groups now, that have continued to divide ourselves a bit, unconsciously. I think IST has helped bring it all back.

The cultural adventures in Nairobi have made this one a worthwhile visit for me. Like, Ethiopian food on Tuesday. (C&M: yea, it was a lot like Blue Nile, but better, with the cutest little Ethiopian hostess and the more authentic ambiance) Then there was gelato (Nutella and black forest for me, thanks!). Last night a bunch of us went out for Sushi. Damn!

5 of us sat at the low tables, barefoot, while the rest of the crowd was out in another room at tables. I ate a bunch, and it was SO good! Tuna sashimi, Dynamite and then Rainbow rolls, soup, tea, mmm... All that for less than 1,000/=, which isn't bad, in my book. Add in the cutie-pie waiter, and it was awesome. I will absolutely be back to that place, and to sushi places in the US.

So I was gonna write another article for you all, was even outlining in my nog last weekend, right? Yea. Lost it! It took all bloody week to get the last one written, and it was enough time to lose the other file. Damn brain! Although, to be fair, there was a bit of a massacre this week, so we're working in crisis mode. Whatever. It might return.

You're an Animal!! Part One: On the Boma

On the average Luhya boma (homestead/compound/place where all the sons and their fams live cozied up to Mama) you will find a bizzunch of smelly critters. All for use of some kind, even if it only seems as lawnmowers. Let's start at the top, with the bigg'uns and work our way down, shall we? Let's.

Mooooooo... Moooooo.... MOOOOO... Have a cow, man! Cows, "ngombe" in Swahili, are on almost every single boma around. They are kept for milk, and almost never used for meat, as the things cost some 10,000/= and no one has the refridgeration needed to store all that meat. There's two kinds: traditional and dairy. The traditionals are weird looking and called “zebu” - bony, big sharp horns and a floppy hump on the back of their neck. I don't have the slightest clue what that hump does, so... yea. The dairy cows are more what you see when you think 'cow'. Well, not really the black and whites, but the shapes the same, ya know? Trads are cheaper, but don't give nearly as much milk. Maybe only a few cups a day. Dairys give a few litres, so you can sell to your neighbors and make some cash - it's 10/= for a cup, 20/= for a bottle (maybe 1/2 litre?). Trads can eat Anything and will be taken out to graze, or mow the lawn. Dairys are snots, requiring napia grass, which is either bought or grown in the shamba. Also, as an fyi, cows like mango and banana peels, but not passion fruit rinds, cabbage, or pineapple. Store that away, just in case.

Next down from a cow is either the sheep or the goat. These aren't always around, and I think they are kept for meat, though the idea of goat milk is starting to build. I’m really curious about this one. Rumor is it’s healthier for humans than moo milk, but I think it’s a matter of taste. (B just told me that they sell camel milk at Nakumatt. I think he’s trying to get me to buy it, but, uh… No. Seriously, where the hell does camel milk come from?? Mum, Dad, stop reading this, I think it’s getting nasty.) Bl does an awesome mbuzi imitation, and now I laugh every time I pass one on the bush.

The sheep are totally ugly, with fatty tails that wag uncontrollably. They make weird noises, not baaaaas like you think. More like someone screaming. Kinda freaky, if you aren’t expecting them. And they are definitely are NOT for wool. Why would you have sheep and not get wool? These are the lawnmowers I was talking about.

Uhh... what’s next? Ah, yes, god, how could I forget?? CHICKENS!! Kuku, kuku, kuku!! The Luhyas luv these little guys. They’re everywhere. And most families bring the kukus in at night, to sleep in the house. When a visitor comes along, they race out to the yard and slaughter a kuku to show their appreciation. So, me, I’m really vocal about how I Don’t eat the kuku, so they don’t have to waste 200/= on a mzungu who won’t appreciate.

It’s damn entertaining, though, living in a land of beasts. Walk through the bush and BAAAAA, suddenly there’s a goat hollerin’ at ya. Or, you carry a stick to thwack the cows and move them out the way. It sure keeps the commute interesting!

An Update

Deeply sorry it's been so blasted long since I posted. I saw the internet briefly about 2 wks ago, but didn't have anything brilliant prepared. I still don't, but this is free this week, so you'll have to bear with it. I think I'm gonna post 2 essays this week, just to make up. Sawa?

I am in Nairobi, back at AFRALTI for IST. We arrived last night, in time for dinner (yuck. The food here is notsogood) and then celebrated our reunion. There, apparently, was a good sale at the Ukwala, so a few folks had gotten a litre of Special Cane (a mysterious liquor that is made from sugar cane, but isn't rum or vodka) for 190/= ('bout two fifty). Let's say a few of us were a little off our game this morning/afternoon/day. But hot damn!

Oh, yea, and M&D: I shaved my nog again, so it's all super short, even shorter than the snap I had sent. It's fab, cause everyone keeps rubbing my head. LOVE IT!

Route 11

Transport here in Kenya comes in a lot of forms, each with its own weird title. Boda boda, tuk tuk, matatu, kwa miguu... Sounds sorta foreign to the American ear (and eye, for you all). So, let me do a bit of explaining.

The most popular means of travel in the rural areas is definitely good ol' Route 11. Everyone goes this way, almost every day, almost exclusively. And, you gotta say, it's a pretty good set-up. Free, flexible, your own time, 24 hours a day. 'Route 11? I thought those people didn't have roads' you say? Yes, yes, Route 11 is a little something also called kwa miguu or, in English, your own 2 legs. {Whoa! What the hell is she talking about??} Okay, go over to a full length mirror and take a look. Route ELEVEN. Two ones. Get it? ha? yea...

So, these people walk EVERYWHERE. Ask where a building is and you will be told "not far", because they are so used to walking hours everyday. Consider, in my town, it is an hour walk to get to a real market for food or clothes or supplies. And students are in the same boat - they walk an hour or so to school, then there's the lunch break where they leave campus, then home at the end of the day.

About half the walkers are barefoot for lack of money or for comfort. And I can dig that -me, I love to be barefoot and out in the grass, the mud, whatever. I'd totally be all about it here, 'cept for the whole ringworm thing... PC sorta discourages us from getting ringworm. The problem with walking barefoot all over town (outside the worms, of course), is that your feet slowly turn in to Hobbit feet. They get wide, flat and thick. Ick.

Stepping up from the footpath is the boda boda. Now, I really have to support this method, I like it, I really do. Of course, I like it better in Kisumu with tarmac, and not so much in the village with shitty ass roads. Boda bodas are 2-wheel bikes that have a padded seat (a rectangular patch of padding and bright leather) welded above the back wheel. Usually steps stick out from the center of the wheel, so you can brace your feet, and there are handles just behind/below the drivers seat to hang on. It's cool. All the joys of bike riding, with someone else doing the hardwork! It's great for the environment, it's a mean of self employment for a high number of people, and Much cheaper than a motor vehicle. Of course... some drivers kill time by drinking local brew, and then aren't really great at judging distance or steering or . . . you know. Not bashing their passenger into oncoming traffic.

Next up: the tuk tuk. These do-dads are only in the cities, not in the rurals. It's a small, 3-wheeled vehicle. Bigger than a golf cart, but not by much. The driver is in the front center, and the passengers squeeze into the back. I say 'squeeze' not because they are uncomfortable or overly small, but because we PCVs are cheap and often put 5+ into the 3-seater. They are pretty fun. Like a taxi, it's a private vehicle, so you go wherever you want, and you can fit your groceries, your luggage, whatnot, much more so than on a boda. Price isn't bad, once shared amongst people, but can add up.

After this is probably the 2nd most common transport, the matatu. These are scary, scary vans designed to seat 14 humans, although their contents are never that simple. In reality, the matatus are packed with almost 20 people, chickens, goats, children, big bags of fruit/maize/clothes/etc., a mattress, luggage, and god only knows what else. They drive along the road, on routes, and pick people from the side of the road. Kind of like busses in cities, but far more chaotic.

The other charm to matatues are the Touts, or Conductors. These are the fellas who hang out the side of a matatu and pick passengers. They tell the driver when to stop or go and collect the fare. If the vehicle is packed (always), they are the ones to stand in the doorway, holding on the frame, with the wind blowing through their burgandy vests. Lots are drunks. Almost all are men, young men. They are very active in their work, and will do nearly everything to get your butt in their vehicle. Truly. Do NOT sit in the very back, the seat just behind the door, or the hump by the driver. PCVs have decided the middle middle is best, as, in case of an accident you are well padded on all sides. Fun, eh?

A traveller could also ride a coach bus, like the greyhound, for long distance. These are big, spendy, and not used as often. Or, you could take the train (which is fun). It's been dubbed 'The Lunatic Express'. At first, I thought this was the PCVs being snotty, as this is the world's slowest train. Then I read a book and found out the name is as old as the line, having to do with how it was built. Rumors are abound that the line has been bought by someone with a brain, and it will be repaired and speeded. Who knows...?

Now, had I drafted this essay, as I intended, it would have a great ending. But, since I didn't. Yea. My method of choice is Route 11, and I do it in my Chacos. I love these shoes. I'm never gonna wear socks again...!!!

Time for a Makeover!

Kiddies - quick note to you all:

I hereby announce there will a slight formate change to the Nightly Rants. We are gonna take it up a notch, and make it a tad more formal. This should help eliminate the boredom and accusations of lameness, as well as give some focus to my meandering rambles.

Starting Saturday (the next day I plan to be with internet, assuming my plans succeed), you will find articles on a variety of Kenyan/Peace Corps/General subjects.

Truly, this will all be self-serving. It's my more secret plan that these articles (essays, if you will) will be saved up for later use in my memoirs. I think it is a requirement that all RPCVs attempt to become rich from books they write post service. Most of you know what sort of samaki I got running this joint, and know I could never dredge my life back from memory alone. (yikes!) Of course, I'll be acquiring a witty editor to help make it the most desirable book on the shelves.

[I do want to acknowledge that my reading addiction has included a number of memoirs, which may have induced this delusion of granduer. Whatever. David Sedaris, you rock my world, even if you make me giggle too loudly while pretending to research AIDS.]

Yea, so, get yourselves ready. Essay #1 will be "Route 11". Look for it on webpages near you!

What to Say?

Man... I've been thinking all week about what to write here. I've been told my blog is lame (sniffle), and I've been told it looks like I'm 'having a lot of fun', so maybe my content hasn't been quite right. I just... got nothin' better.

For the last 2 weeks my knee has still been a pain. I have a knot in there, which seems like a not-good thing. Turns out, walking a lot isn't nice, but a whole lot better than chooing. That deep of a squat, with all my weight - super painful! I can hear it crack and grind, too, which is just nasty. Whatever. Monday I crashed, again, on the very same knee. We were on the way to my house -almost there!- and slid in the mud. It was enough to bruise and scratch it, but mostly just hurt my poor knee's pride. So, I'm deciding to take a whole month off from boda bodas. We'll see if that helps.

My org is planning a World AIDS Day event. Sort of. If we can move past donors onto actual activities and content, at least. So, don't hold your breath.

I've been practicing the cloth pads from the Many Moons design. It's good, and seems to be working. They are costing around 20/= a piece. When I asked the women what they would charge/pay for these, they say 10/=. Regular disposables cost 10/=!! We clearly need to have some talk on pricing goods, as well as investment. But, the positive, we are generating interest and curiousity.

As for the assistance from you all, from Cheryl and OU, and the other private donors out there, let me again say Thank You! I am thinking about a "symbolic" donation, where a certain amount of money equals a number of pads. We could then just buy the materials here with that money, saving the shipping expense and stress. Or, directing that money to LunaPads, to keep things concentrated and to also give props to the ladies there for their generosity and kindness. What do you all think?

Also: I doubt I'll be back here for 3 weeks, until just before Thanksgiving. We are going out to Nairobi to dine with Embassy families, which is awesome! Sorry for the slightly long delay there. But, after that, life will be sweet - a week for turkey day, then a week at site, then back to Kitui for IST, followed by Xmas (also in Nairobi) and then a trip to Lamu for the New Year.

It sounds like a big vacation, I know, but I swear - we do work sometimes! And all of us are realizing Kenya doesn't really need PH PCVs. Good thing then there are 52 set to arrive in May! (where the hell are they going to stick all those suckers???)

Oh, and, the body count is now at 5. So, that's, what... 36 of us left?

And, before I forget, 'cause I know you're all just dying to hear, Cathy really has died. I was going on the hibernation thing, until I came home and found him, um, 'skeletal', due to the efficient red ants. Happily (?) he has been replaced by a loudmouth too rude to introduce himself. At least the new one poops less.

Unlucky 13

Friday the 13th. Never a day with much swing for me before, but today really rocks. Wanna hear all about it?? Of course you do!

I wake up at 5:30am today, intending to catch the Pastor's matatu and get a ride to Kisumu. That's fine, no worries. I wake, I pack, I get out the door at about 10 to 6. Cannot shut my door. Well, it does, sort of, but not enough, like it should, to allow me to latch it. wtf. I try and try and try. Nothing. Go down to the Pastor's, planning to ask him and his fellas for help, only to find his garage open and empty. He left!!!

I round up a farmboy to help me, and he can't get it either. Even with a friend helping him. They pop the latch off with a panga and say it was only on with a bit of sand and cement. Great, thanks. So, I figure I'll be getting robbed this weekend. I'm trying not to focus too much on that.

I begin my walk to Kilingili, catching a boda boda about halfway. Alright, not too bad. Even the kids on their way to school weren't too obnoxious or rude. We're getting there.

I checked the Posta in Kilingili and it is completely empty. Not even a Newsweek from PC. Damn! I grab my boda boda man, a fella who's driven me before, and start the trip to Stendkisa. He's inquiring if I am a Christrian and how I worship. About 2/3rds the way there, we ride waaayyyy too close to another bike and *BAM* my ass is turtled, clutching my beyond-throbbing knee. I don't know what it hit, exactly, but it was a hard hit. God, that (does still) hurt! It's somewhat swollen now, and I don't know what to do in a country without ice. Scraped my hand and elbow, too. Got to cry a little in the middle of a street, right out front of a Primary school, with kids hollering about the mzungu.

It's been okay since then - mandazis and chai at my fav place, new books to read, seeing my PCV pals... My knee is big and stiff and not cool. I'm gonna see how it is tomorrow before I bug PC about it. I would have taken ibuprofen for it, but there wasn't any at the office, so it's just tylenol for me. sweet.

In other news:

You are all the coolest, most supportive people a PCV could ask for! My email to LunaPads was successful - they are intersted in helping and will be figuring out how. It might take a little while, but that is very likely to happen.

I am SO happy that Cheryl has been pursuing this, also, at OU. The more sources the better, I say. Lighten the load a bit for everyone. A.Jean brings a good point on shipping, which is a wasteful place to spend donated dollars. I'll have to give that one some thought and see what might be done. Just now I am thinking, I wonder if X, the husband of my fellow mzungu would be willing to carry them over in Dec. when he comes to visit. You can bring 2 50lb bags on international flights, so maybe if one was just pads..? I'll have to ask.

Please keep asking around and being creative. I have visited 2 Secondary and 3 Primary schools so far, all with this need. It's about 200 gals at each 2nd and 100 in the 1st schools. There are a few more in the area, so we're looking at 1,000 to be a one-per-woman kind of thing. I've got a sewing pattern, so that's what I'm really hoping for, beyond an initial donation to pique interest. That then becomes business and income for women. Sustainable!!

And on that note, I'd like to encourage you all to read this article, given to my by Hugo. Very interesting.

Oh, p.s. I think Cathy (the bat) has died. He's stuck to the wall and hasn't moved in a few days. I took pics, dad, so don't worry! And it seems I'm going to have to remove him and dispose, so I might take a few more. Mixed feelings on the issue...

A Saturday Night, and I Ain't Got Nobody

I'm in Kisumu again, the only place to be. The only place to be for internet, at least! Damn the Posta and their humungous debt to the internet provider!! Rumor is, they have no plans to pay and reinstate the internet. Seems a great opportunity for some new business in Kenya, right?? Open your own little cyber cafe (pronounced phonetically here, no accent) and serve the needy people. Nope. Not yet, at least.

I may have mentioned before, I'm reading books like they're going out of style. I think my tally is 15 since arriving in Kenya. Turns out, the PC library has a lot of African books - about white residents or visitors in Africa, some fiction, some memoirs. Turns out, I have an interest in African books. I like being able to say "I've been there!" or "Man, I know exactly what you mean." Also, turns out, reading two African books, back to back, that criticize the development and the role of aid workers on this continent is a really bad idea.

I read Dark Star Safari, by Paul Theroux. Very good book, very good. He was a PCV in Malawi back in the day, and takes a stop at his old village to see how things have progressed. They haven't. If anything, things have regressed. The aid workers throughout the book are rude. There is an on-going comment on the damage that has actually resulted from this well-intended aid and donation. It makes people to be totally dependent on their next donor, never looking to themselves as a means to escape poverty.

The second book, Zanzibar Chest, was also really good. That one is the memoirs of a journalist in Africa, who has been in Somalia and Rwanda during the really bad times. I learned a lot from that book, which is always good. But, again, it had a negative comment for the aid workers that come in and force people to change and take on Western ways. I read these two back to back and was a mess for it. I was depressed, without hope, angry, and resentful of the PC and the people in my village who continually ask me for money. I took it out on one poor fella, who was asking me to connect him to a Christian group in the US to sponsor some projects. He had to go and pray for a while with the Secretary by the time I finished with him.

The good news: I'm sorta starting to do real work here, and work that I think can make more of a difference. I see teaching as having a stronger impact than setting up a small business, as our education always lasts longer than our interest in the summer lemonade stand. Last Wednesday, I went to Kilingili Secondary to meet all 340 of their co-ed students. We started a talk about sex and AIDS and keeping healthy. I really like their guidance counselor, so she and I will be setting up a long-term program where I can meet with smaller groups (like, 50 or less, PLEASE!) and teach this Life Skills program that's about assertiveness, AIDS, and delaying sex. A really positive approach, I think.

Martin and I went over to Eshinutsa Secondary, and they are in desperate need. They don't have a guidance counselor at all, nor do they have a female teacher. It's been a problem, as they can't access the students the way they need to. I'm very eager to get started there.

I'm here today to do some research on some projects and get some business done. I'm also trying to get the hell out of dodge for a breather, a shower and some food I didn't have to cook myself. One thing that has come up a few times is the topic of why female students don't last in Secondary. One reason is they are "sick" once a month, having to stay home because they can't afford tampons or pads. Just imagine how much you learn when you are only getting 75% of what the boys get. I'm hoping to either find a sponsor (ack, I know) or a means for women to solve this. I'm going to stop writing now and go check out LunaPads' site to see what they might suggest...

Needed: Witty Titles

Greetings from Kakamega, today!

I got up damn early today (5:30am) so I could hitch a free ride in the Pastor's matatu into town. It sucked, but sure beat the alternative of walking an hour, waiting ages for a matatu to pass through Kilingili, and then trying to find space in a vehicle going north. I got "sold" in Chavakali, but it was okay, as the driver lent me his newspaper to pass the time.

There's a PCV here that is SEDICT and was the PCT in Mama's house before me. It's nice to visit someone new and hopefully, ideally, he will have good advice for me on how to deal with all the SEDICT issues that have come up at site.

Speaking of which... I went to Nukuru last week, for business. I stayed with some of my fellow peeps who are living in a HUGE, nice, stema-fied house on KITI, the Kenyan Industrial Technical Institute. I was totally jealous, at first. The weather was cool (or cold, depending), there was water and stema, pavement, actual variety in the market, etc. But, the downer, town isn't that great. Crowded and smelly, as many cities are. My orgs people were Totally clingy, and that drove me insane. I'm going to have to wear a disguise the next time I try to go there!

I think I will be getting to go there every few months, on business, which is just awesome. Business trips dont count against vacation days, and the travel is paid for by Alpha. There are some big national parks there that I need to visit, especially before my visitors begin to flock to me. I want to be sure it is worthwhile before we spend some hard-earned greenbacks.

A highlight of my Nukuru trip: the market had zucchini!! I bought 6, way to many, and have delighted in eating them everynight. I made Pasta Pazoo that lingered for 3 meals, and then did a spicy stir-fry that I tacoed into chapatis last night. Damn tasty!!!

A quick thanks for letters and packages! I came home to quite a few, which was a real treat! I have some on the way out, too, so don't fret. Hopefully I can get the money to buy some aerograms and make the mailings cheaper and easier and maybe increase my output. So, the best way to RECEIVE a letter is to SEND a letter!! You dig??

It's a Saturday in Kisumu

Habari zenu? Mzuri sana!! Hey y'all, how's life? Rockin', over here.

I am in Kisumu just now, where the internet is cheap and fast. The food is good. There are showers. Stima. Tarmak. Civilization. Yea, baby!!

I wasn't planning to come this weekend - I was gonna stay home and be good, in anticipation of my upcoming trip to Nukuru. But then I got a text msg saying there was a group of PCVs going to greet Mr. Barrak Obama as he arrived in the Kisumu airport, and did I want to come. Hell yea!! [FYI- Barrak's father was a Luo, from Nyanza province and he likes to come and be both political and familial with the Kenyans.] So, this morning, we all went down to the airport and stood around with a bunch of reporters, waiting. He arrived and came to greet us personally and talk with us PCVs. Very, very cool. We got a photo taken ( I hope to have it posted soon, I'll be in touch) and shook hands. I was in the background on the Citizen news today, as Barrak spoke with his Illinois constituents. There was a reporter from the Chicago Sun Times (Lynn something), who spoke with Claire and some others about Barrak and PC. Maybe you can look for a photo/news story on their site or on her blog. Let me know if and what you find!

Thanks so much to all you that have sent soap recipes. I will soon print and test them. If you have any other ideas for income generation, please be most free to share! It's not my main job here, but I still feel compelled to try.

Just for the info and the good example: My dear Aunt Jean sent a small pkg. this month. It came in a small envelope from the post office, maybe a 5x7? She got quite a bit of goods inside it (though she seems to have forgotten the letter!), and it was only $8 in postage. For whatever reason, it seems to have slipped through customs, as I paid no charge and saw no ticket. Maybe the size? Who knows... But it's a perfect way to send something small for cheap. And hey, Im not begging for packages. They are a treat (I smiled for days after this last one), but I am just as happy with a well-filled letter. Send Mail!! Let me know the mundane things and the exciting things. Don't be afraid of being boring. It wont be! THANKS!!!

Request:

A request to the masses, if you'd please take a moment to consider...

I am seeking recipes for butter, cheeses, and other milk-based yummies. These would be straight from the source cooking, with limited/none refrigeration options. In other words, cheeses that are durable or wax-coated.

I am also seeking recipes for soaps that do not require lye or caustic soda. I know there are some out there, but believe they will be harder to find.

For those of you with unlimited access to fast internet, please spend some time searching and send me what you find!! If you have my email, it can be sent direct, or posting here would be just fine.

Thanks bunches! The people of Kisa will thank you, as these will hopefully become income-generating activities.

Home sweet home

I am at site now. I'm trying to get cleaned and organized. I think I need to buy shelving and drawers, though. There's a fundi in town who is making a kitchen counter and a cupboard for me, so I'll finally be able to cook like a normal person. Well. No, nevermind. I'll be close to being able to cook like I am home. I still am using a jiko, which is a challenge in itself. I am really hoping to be getting a gas stove soon, but who the hell knows?

Limited work, so far. We are supposed to not work in the first 3 months, as community entry time, but my supervisor doesn't really get the concept. I don't know how else to explain it and, frankly, I'm tired of trying. I feel better when I am out in the field, anyhow. Martin and I are taking it easy, going to meet the women's groups and orphans that I'll be working with. So, really, that's community entry, right?

I'm in Kakamega right now, a city an hour and some north of Kisa. The internet is fast, the market was good, and the SecurCorp had my bike. I tell people here that I am getting a bike, so they look at me, shocked and ask, you know how to ride?? Yes, I tell them. Then they laugh! Why, exactly, is that funny? And, really, why on earth would I be getting a bike if I didn't know how to ride it?? Come on. This is Not the place to learn!!

'Twas the Night Before Swear-In

Hey hey hey! Guess what this is?? This, right here, is my very last message as a Peace Corps Trainee! YA-hooooo!! We have been brought to Nairobi (kicking and screaming, thank you) to swear in and become official Volunteers. Cool, eh?

This has been a manic week, to be sure. We had presentations, an all-night party followed way too closely by a thank-your-family party, then a language test, packing, a farewell to my women's group, more packing, shopping and GO! This may surprise people, but I began packing my things Tuesday at, oh... 3:30p, when the PC van had come by the house about, say, 2p. Cool! I think I got it all in as best as possible, but damn, dude. This sucks!!

Tomorrow is our ceremony. It should be all great and formal, with the acting Ambassador at the US Embassy doing the officiating. Afterwards, to the PC office for an auction, paperwork and some time with medical to look at this damned rash. For our celebration, we have made a reservation for 45 at Carnivore, Kenya's biggest disco. They serve an all-you-can-eat selection of game, including gator, zebra, gazelle, etc. Needless to say, I'll be dining ala carte, with a less nyama-intense menu!

I've been getting mail - you all kick ass. Thank you!!!! In case I didn't post it last time, I have my new mailing address. Now, the important thing: for the first 90 days in country, packages are duty-free when sent to Nairobi. This is lasting until the end of Sept., as they only count business days. So, send the packages QUICK!! PO Box 29185, I believe it is. LETTERS ONLY (until the month of October, and then pkgs, too) should be sent to me, c/o Alpha Support Development Programme, PO Box 299 - 30518, Kilingili, KENYA. Sawa?

This is crazy... the internet here at AFRAALTI, our hotel, is free and fast, and yet, I'm rushing as though I had to pay and unsure of how to handle the relatively-speedy connection! Eek!

One week to go!

One final week to PST. One more, excruciating, stress-filled, semi-fun, bittersweet week before we swear in and actually begin life as Peace Corps volunteers.

Today has been fairly easy. I attempted to use my leadership skills on my technical group - 10 other adults - only to meet massive resistance. It was awesome. We need to be given 5500 /= before too late on Thursday (ha!!) so we can afford to go to market. There, we must buy food and such for a party we have to throw for our host families on Saturday. All organized, coordinated and executed by us. Friday will be occupied by a semi-PC-planned sleep-over at Thome. But, again, they want us to do most of the organizing. I mean, we have plenty of time to group up and discuss, right? Did I mention the 3 reports/presentations due Friday morning? I may have forgotten that...

Seriously, though, if you disregard PC, things have been good here. I had a couple of infections and currently have an odd-looking rash, but life is good. Mama and fam are well. Friends are about the same as me. Weather has been nice, but, we are in the dry season, so it's not like rainy days are even an issue.

After site visit, when I last wrote, we have had more time for our community projects. The choo we were digging is without funds, so that came to a halt. My women's group is still real active, though, so that's great. We taught them to make salsa and soap, both as income-generating activities. I've no idea about IGAs, but I guess it is good to practice now for when I get to site. That seemed to be number 1 request there.

Us PCTs organized another all-night party at a local hotel. Cheeseburgers, onion petals, salsa, guacamole, chapati crisps, ugali crisps, and sangria. Damn good selection of food! We are really good cooks when we put our minds to it, and we know how to have fun.

As I had said, there is one more week. We will leave next Wed. for Nairobi and swear in on Thursday. Pretty exciting, eh? Hope so. Then, we are on our own to get to site. I guess the other Westerners are planning to sleep Friday in Nairobi, take the night train on Saturday, sleep in Kisumu Sunday and be at site on Monday. I like the idea, but will need to let my supervisor know. I think he honestly believes I can make it there on Friday. He also believes PC is taking me, despite my attempts to explain otherwise.

Gonna run out of time... More from Nairobi!!

Future Site Visits

I'm in Nairobi today, on my way back home from my future site. I've been placed in Western province, near Kakamega, Kisumu, Butere, etc. Try to find that area on the map. It's north of Lake Victoria, beautiful and green, hilly, and nice. The weather felt humid, but somewhat cool. Because it is north of the equator, I'm suddenly coming in to summer instead of winter, which feels totally random. The people are of the Luhya tribe and speak Luhya. They are made up of a million clans, each with their own dialect. Sounds like learning mother tongue will be a challenge.

I meant to have my address with me when I used internet, but this kind of came up suddenly. It may take a little longer. Sorry, ya'll. I'll be sharing with my supervisor, who runs the Alpha Support Development Programme. Maybe you can find out that way? It's a PO Box in Kilingili.

Umm... It sounds really great, but super overwhelming. I met 3 groups on Friday and was introduced as being one step below 'messiah'. Uh.. me? Yikes! It sounds like I will have a wealth of things to do, so if I get bored I either really am a messiah or else I'm a moron.

My house is nice. A 2 bedroom place, living room, indoor kitchen and indoor bafu (washroom). My bafu is in desperate need of a curtain, as I discovered my neighbor watching me the other morning. Nice. Thanks. The choo is a double, out back, and full of giant jumpy spiders. We are getting a lesson on Doom this week, so we can be prepared for moving in. I want to just gut it out, scrub everything and repaint, then rearrange the furniture in a me-friendly way. I'm lucky to have a big table, chairs, a couch, and a bed. Not too much will be needed in furniture then.

We are going back to Kitui this afternoon for our last month of training. Hopefully all will go well, then we are back to Nairobi for swearing in on the 3rd and leaving for site on the 4th. Oooh, baby!